The Baltic Series: Riga Latvia

Riga is a city I have been curious about since the city replaced boardwalk on the international version of monopoly. Riga is a fascinating city- it is the largest of the Baltic capitals which have resisted Russian occupation all throughout history however nearly of the residents of Riga are of Russian decent and the language is spoken in the streets widely.

This center of Riga is beautiful, manicured, and blatantly beautiful. Starting from the river you will see Riga's old city with a famous skyline of ecclectic church spires puncturing the sky above the mix up of hundreds of year of architecture. This area is great for locals and tourists alike. Here you can find plenty of historical buildings and walking tours around Riga's finest, plenty of shopping, and a myriad of restaurants. In summer many of these are outside and in the evening the music-loving capital is bursting with song in every square for your pleasure and is supplemented by amazing and creative buskers on the street corners.

My personal favorites being the covering of pop and rock songs by a group of four male students cross-dressed as old babushki. Priceless.

One section further from the river you will find a river flanked by floral studded banks with walking paths and social spots. You can walk along this and enjoy the people ferrying by or you can hop in a boat and enjoy it from the water. On either side of the banks you will see famous monuments, the main university building and the highly praised opera house.

Cross the river to find a central part of Riga that more modern. On last edge of the center is where you will find a great mix of boutiques and vogue European shopping as well as plenty of modern and trendy bars and eateries. Some of the cities best architecture is out of the center with many museums the famous Laima Chocolate Factory and a renowned art neveau area known for the largest collection of this style in Europe. Make sure to grab some ice-cream and wander to the further out places because they are a perect spplement to the cities quaint medieval old town.

Riga at night transforms into party town with all sorts of late night venues for those who love watching live music, performing it via karaoke, or dancing their brains out. Many low key places can be found to suit all.

Riga's charm is in it's diversity. It has something to offer everyone and is a nice medium size that can be explored by foot, bike, and occasionally by boat. There is a nice blend of energies that can inspire any adventurer.

The Baltic Series: Hill of Crosses

My last stop before leaving Lithuania for Latvia was The Hill of Crosses. This hill is a few kilometers outside of the city Siauliai. The hill began in the 1800’s but began to grow and be covered in crucifixes in response to the Soviet repression of religion. People from all over the country would erect crosses at the sight and it grows every year. Many families have their own cross and will add other small crosses or crucifixes with their children as their family grows. Currently there are thousands of crosses at the relatively small sight but the effect is impressive. If you are only going to Lithuania once, it is something you should take the time to see.

The Baltic Series: Kaunas Lithuania

Kaunas- a city that acted as the Capital of Lithuania during war times is much smaller and more run down than Vilnius. To be honest if I was there completely alone, I think I would have seen it all in one day and left without being very impressed. However I was lucky enough to stay with an amazing couch surfing host- Marius. Marius is Lithuanian born and bred and he is also an architectural student so I was lucky to be imparted with all the history and architectural insight that would escape a foreigner wandering the streets.

Kaunas may be small, but it has a very old and charming center and the old town is wedged between two rivers lined with decorative slopes. I would suggest going in historical order in this city to see its evolution. Start with the old Kaunas Castle and the park around it, then move into the old quarter that is all brick work and cobbles. This is the best place to find live music, traditional Lithuanian food and religious and mercantile buildings dating back to the XV Century. If you have never had the chance to try the Russian borscht you can try the Lithuanian version Saltibarsciai- a beet soup served cold with sour cream and a side of hot potatoes with dill.

Once you have browsed the traditional little shops around the center continue to the slightly less charming, but fascinating Soviet area down the street Laisves Aleja. Here you can find more shops, museums, statues and the beautiful St. Michael the Archangel Church. The center does not provide much else.

I was however taken to a Devil museum! Lithuanians love three things- Mysticism, Basketball, and hating on Russians. The Devil museum falls under the first category and had a collection of devils from Old Lithuanian times and from all around the world. Basketball is everywhere, even decaled in flowers on the side of the river, and even though many Soviet buildings remain the Lithuanians make sure to denounce them and most Russian politics quite regularly.

The best part of Kaunas for me was spending time with the locals and drinking and snacking by the river while the sun sat. It was invaluable for my understanding of the country and the Lithuanian people. Although I may not specifically take a trip to Kaunas in the future I would tag it as a must if you were planning on touring this small and unique country.

The Baltic Series: Vilnius Lithuania

Suddenly finding myself torn from an established life in the largest city in Europe and dropped in Vilnius-the quaint capital of Lithuania was a bit of a shock. The first day was a lot of walking and figuring out what exactly I was supposed to be doing with myself. My mind needed to let go of my life, as I had known it for a year and turn on exploration mode. Once it did everything got a little more sublime.

Vilnius is a small city that can be explored on foot or by bicycle with ease. The city is a mix of old medieval architecture, some Soviet bricks, and new European style with lots of glass and modern lines. Although there are some Soviet remnants here Lithuania is not like the rest of Eastern Europe and the people will sternly remind you as such.

I would suggest touring this city by meandering slowly between some of the major attractions in the old town and then move into the new development once you have exhausted the charms of the cobbled streets near the river.

Day one I got up early, loitered in one of the many coffee shops near the central square. Browsed the churches speckling the city, most memorably a small chapel built atop a portico of the old city walls with a shiny pipe organ. Then settled in for lunch.

After an easy morning I laced up my flip-flops and hiked up the hill to the city’s old castle. This panoramic view of the city is second to none- the highlight of the Vilnius. Around the base of the hill are Vilnius’ museums and most famous cathedral- definitely worth a look.

Next head down Gedimino Prospektas on the way to the new city where you will find some shopping and great patios. Although I would not suggest coming to Vilnius for a fashion getaway there are several trendy malls and some non-impressive boutiques you can sniff out in this area. If you feel like history you can find the highly acclaimed KGB Museum not far from the old city down this street. This is also the area you want to have dinner if you are looking for something trendier. If not, old town will serve up all the Lithuanian specialties you like and there is live music all around the main square in the evenings.

Lithuanian food is not identical but similar to Russian cuisine with cold beet soup and other fairly heavy meat and potato dishes. But if it’s a hot summer day you can find ice cream to chase it down.

The nightlife in Vilnius is really good for the size of the city with a variety of different musical genres and vibes to be enjoyed. All summer this city like the other Baltic capitals takes advantage of the heat and stays up late.

Day 2 I filled in some empty patches on my map but spent a good amount of time by the river. There is grass to recline on and catch some rays. A skate park, public beach volleyball courts where locals flock in the evenings and plenty of food and drink are a short walk away.

Overall Vilnius was a relaxing and charming introduction to the Baltic region. The city rejoices more in Lithuania’s Medieval roots from when they were fighting German crusaders than their dark days behind the iron curtain. They are doing an excellent job of developing their own unique identity in Europe. The prices are cheaper than the rest of Western Europe and would make a great getaway for those looking for something new.

Moscow + Summer Sunshine = LOVE

I have been living in this city for quite a while now, and after months of summer and only a few posts I thought it would be a perfect time to shed new (sun)light on the Russian Capital. Here are some fine-weathered photos from my parents' recent visit to Moscow.

Tsar Cannon- The world's Largest

The Giant Bell that fell from Ivan the Great's Bell Tower

The Kremlin Wall in Alexander's Gardens- it shows the exposed rock which lies underneath the building.


GUM- Perhaps my favorite part of Red square is this grogeous shopping center which is still catering to the Russian Elite but allows even the poppers to use the restroom and enjoy 2 dollar ice cream like they have for decades.


Soldiers in Moscow are as plentiful as ants, but probably don't work as hard. However it is always interesting to see them performiong a well-rehearsed ceremony.


Piggy Backing Momma in front of St.Basil's


My Dad with a lovely Babushka demanding money for photos on Old Arbat Street.


The Drowning Horses fountain comes from old Russian Folklore.


A great shot of one of Stalin's Seven Sisters. 7 Skyscrapers comissioned by Staling to be built in a similar style. I have heard they go as deep into the ground as they are tall and that some of them are connected with a secret 'metro 2'


The most famous tower surrounding the Kremlin-It can tell time!


A colorful shot of Gorky Park on the bank of the Moscow River


A picture of Moscow City, the new development of high rises in Moscow. Taken from 'Sparrow Hills' by the University.


A statue in honor of Alexander the Great


The Church of Christ of the Ascension- Built about 20 years ago after a church on this site was destroyed by Communists.


A controversial statue of Peter the Great in the Moscow River. Many Muscovites hate it and think it should be sent somewhere else. Other think that is deserves to be in St.Petersburg as it was founded by Peter.


Gorgeous gardens at Tsvetnoy Bulvar


Tsvetnoy Bulvar


Enjoying some beers and live music from on the Garden Ring in Moscow near Chisti Prudy.


Hotel Metropol near the Bolshoi Theater and Red Square


My lovely parents in front of the gate to Red Sqaure


Good eats have always been the most important thing in my family, other than perhaps the family itself. Since the food didn't change much with the season it's photos were neglected. So here is a shout out to all the great food and coffee enjoyed in Moscow.