BRUXELLES/BRUSSEL

BRUXELLES

 To describe Brussels is a bit of a funny thing, because this capital is on a piece of land which has belonged to pretty much every country it currently borders upon and thus has influences from the Dutch, German, French, and in recent years the entire European Community as Brussels is not only the capital of Belgium but also of the European Union.

Despite it’s importance in the EU, Brussels doesn’t seem to take itself too seriously, after the diplomatic work is done the Belgians still do what they do best: Food, Beer, and Joviality.

My perfect day in Brussels looked something like this:

Waking up a bit late, having a latte and speculoos on toast. Then heading to the Atomium—a building in the form of an iron crystal atom blown up 162 Billion times and made into an exhibition center for the Universal Exhibition of 1958. A time where post war Europe needed unification and vision and Belgium delivered a message of peace and of social and scientific advancement. The building is there now with both a permanent exhibit regarding the exhibition and temporary exhibits changing quite regularly. It is also one of the best views of Brussels.

Next we went just outside of the Grand Place (Brussels main plaza) for Moules e Frites. A giant pot of Mussels done in a unique broth depending on the establishment paired with thick fresh fries sizzled in horse fat and served with house-made mayonnaise and beer. Divine.

After working over a pot of forty something black shells we went to see the statue of Jeanneke Pis (little woman piss) the less famous accompaniment to Manneken Pis a little boy pissing and a famous symbol of Brussels. The statue has been stolen many times but the current reproduction has been peeing since 1619. Many legends surround Menneken Pis, none of which are confirmed, but my favorite is that one day a little boy was passing by the city’s dam in a time of flood. The little boy noticed the hole and put his ‘peepee’ inside it to save the city.

Next stop was the cinema. You may think, how is the cinema Belgian? Well when you can see Tintin in 3D it becomes Belgian. It’s a fantastic film adaptation of one of the Tintin comics written by the Belgian artist Georges Rémi. The comics first appeared in a child’s section of the Brussels newspaper called Le Petit Vingtième. Some of the older works show the outdated ideas of colonialism that were held by citizens at that time, but the comic evolved into an all audience adventure series that has now been translated from the original French into 80 other languages.

Lastly, how to finish a great day in Belgium? Two words: Belgian + Waffle. At first I was timid but luckily my waffle chef swayed me into having the Waffle Royale. This decadent monster had Belgian chocolate, whipped cream, an array of fresh fruits, sprinkles, and caramel sauce all towering like an carefully crafted sculpture on top of a fresh cooked waffle.

And with that I went home to bed.

Bonne nuit!

Chocolate for Breakfast!

Well it was not my first time tasting this delicacy but it wasn’t until now that I have dove head first into it- Gobbling up two doses a day upon arrival in Madrid. Churros con Chocolate are a Spanish treat that are enjoyed for breakfast, after midnight, or just about anytime. A churro, most often seen stateside covered with cinnamon and sugar is a long, thin, ridged pastry that could be compared with a giant edible rope. It is deep-fried and chopped into manageable ‘straws’, which are then served up with a thick, hot drinking chocolate (like pudding).

Churros first began after the Portuguese sailed to China during the Ming Dynasty. In China they learned new culinary techniques for working with dough. The Chinese had a secret art of dough pulling that could not be shared under protection of death. However the Portuguese used the dough and instead pushed it out through a star shaped nozzle which resulted in the prismatic ridged churros seen today all over Spanish-speaking countries today.

I tested a few different venues for my devilish addiction such as the modern CH&CH but ended up frequenting the time-tested Chocolateria San Gines. First opened in 1894 San Gines is a favorite of locals and tourists alike. Every visit I made was accompanied by teeming hordes of chocolate-hungry patrons. We were served by seasoned waiters in white chef jackets who navigate the restaurant with a small fortress of triple-stacked mugs and spiky churro plates hoisted shoulder-height on trays. Watching them dance through the restaurant was like seeing an artist on stage. I think most would agree that the best part is being able to eat chocolate for breakfast and everyone else thinking that it’s normal.

So the next time you are in Spain make the effort to find this great Chocolate house and indulge in something age-old and supremely satisfying.

Sampling Soviet Satellites

When you think of Russian food you probably don’t get much past Vodka and Caviar, but there is a quite a lot more. What really adds to the cuisine in Russia is the influence and availability of food from former Soviet Satellite countries. These countries have given Russia food of Slavic, Middle Eastern, and Asian origins, which I have not come across even in the most global of cities.

Last weekend I went with a group of teachers and had my first Belarusian dining experience where I dined on Draniki (a small, flat potato dumpling) served in a pot with baked prunes, onions, and veal. It was served with smetana (kind of like sour cream without the sour). With this I has fresh whortleberry juice and krambambula-a spiced Belarusian liqueur made of vodka, honey and spices such as nut meg, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper.

This following weekend we went for homey Georgian fare- Georgia as in the small eastern European country and not the southern states of America. Georgians are known for good taste and culture as well as being much louder and passionate than our stone-faced Russians. From the smoky long tabled bar we dined in I would have to agree.

We started with Khinkali, a large meat dumpling that you eat with your hands and suck the salty juices out of while still piping hot.

Next we had the iconic and famous Hatchipuri. This cheesy Georgian flat bread is simple but divine. To go with these we had kabob-roasted meat topped with dill, onions, and pomegranate arils, which they call sashik. As dessert we had a double round of Turkish coffee served with chocolate. The coffee is sweetened and served with the grounds still swirling in the glass. You must let it settle to the bottom before you enjoy.

When winter is rough and work is demanding food is often the best part of my day and I am glad to be dipping into a new world of cuisine that is a combination of the new and the homey. If I am in any luck we can hunt down some Azerbaijani next week.

Maslenitsa Madness!

This week in Russia has been the annual celebration Maslenitsa, or Butter week. It is the last week before lent where people all over the country feast upon Blini (pancakes) before their partial fast. It is combined as a festival of spring coming and on the last day of the festival a female scarecrow, the symbol of winter is burned to welcome in the spring.

The week starts fairly slow but each day has a theme, one for having pancakes with your in-laws, one for sweet pancakes, another for festivities and games, and so on. Sunday is the most important day, the day of forgiveness. On this day families take pancakes to their dead relatives in the cemetery as well as celebrate in major festivals included pancakes and animal fighting (sometimes even bears)

As you may have guessed I took full advantage of this holiday and have been eating pancakes left right and center. I began my feasting in Red square with a traditional condensed milk topping paired with a mug of hot mead to the background of fur clad drummers.

Then I did two nights of home cooked Blini from Smoked Salmon and cream cheese, to banana and Nutella, and cinnamon and sugar. These Blini were better than anything I found out on the streets.

The grand finale was on sunday in Red Square where there was a small state fair erected in the shadow of St.Basil's Cathedral. Here there were hundreds of people with scare crow face paint and colorful sunshine pinwheels. Blini were being served up hot- both sweet and savoury as children when flying down a big ice slide. Center stage however was a musical competition with performers in traditional style from all 12 regions of Russia.

It was a cold spring night and so we went home to have a pancake nightcap. I decided it would be best to do this in a personal way with Canadian Maple Syrup and butter.

I am full of Blini, ready for spring, and looking forward to tasting all of the special Lent menus.

Live to Indulge

Anyone in a megalopolis knows what is like to rush about and commute for hours each day, and anyone constantly on the run knows the hunger caused by this. There is no time to stop and eat. On average a roast pig probably has more stuffed in its mouth than a New Yorker, Londoner, or Tokyoite. Resultantly fast food and kiosks have become the lifeblood of these people on the run. In New York they ‘grab a slice’, Londoners have Cornish Pasties, and in Tokyo they have steam buns and sushi galore. These metro foods are often eaten out of desperation, but can also be an indulgence.

In Moscow I have been starved and enticed into a variety of metro fare. Most of these are high energy and low cost or quality. The first fad I fell into was grabbing a few Sloika Pies on my way to work in the morning. These pies range from ground meats and sausages to creamy cheese and fruits. Stopping for these pies reminds me of indulging at the patisseries in France sans the silky French names, and the smiley Frogs in white hats spattered with flour. Lets just say the quality and ambience isn’t there.

Next in line was the shawarma. Similar to the shawarma we get back in Canada from late night Lebanese joints like ‘Mr. Shawarma and Shawarma Kingdom’ (result of English as a second language I am sure) They wrap up spiced chicken that has been marinating in its owns juices with cabbage, tomatoes, and cucumbers and give it some gusto with garlic mayo and chili sauce. I started eating these late night wraps because it was one of the only things I could say and at 1:30am getting off the Metro I couldn’t ask for anything more. I have managed to cut down but still love having shawarma at least once a week. The best part of Moscow shawarma is that it is sealed on both ends for convenience and they put a dollop of garlic mayo on the top so that your first few bites that are tortilla heavy are just as good or better than the ones that come in the middle. This technique needs to cross borders!

One that I was hesitant to try, but I feel could be wildly popular back home is Kartoshka (Potato). Here you can have a foil wrapped potato pulled out of the oven, have butter and cheese worked into its whites and then adorn it with your choice of toppings. Toppings range from sausage and cheese, shrimp, feta cheese, and move into crispy onion bits, and things I just point at and hope they taste good. Luckily they nearly always do. The point and pray is a strategy I have mastered.

Now here comes my new favorite, a little place called Beard Papa’s. Not exclusively Russian, but exclusively wonderful. Beard Papa is a pipe-smoking sailor that happens to have an expert hand with jumbo cream puffs. As soon as you get upwind of the store you smell the sweet fresh baked scents of tender puff pastry. Once inside you choose if you want chocolate, vanilla, berry, or green tea cream piped into your fist-sized puff. I went with green tea; it is a fix I have been deprived of for months now. I was more than fixed. In a hurry I mowed into my giant creamy heaven as I walked. I had green cream in and around my mouth and icing sugar all over my pea coat like powder burns from a shotgun. I advise you to indulge at Beard Papa’s but to take your time eating your dream cloud and pairing it with a nice cappuccino before you rush off.

Although I am often cursing the fact that I have no time for a real meal, and condemned by other teachers for eating these foods I am enjoying the new tastes on the go. Next up: corn and the cob, and a pint.

Food Feud!

Most people know that I have an amazing and highly developed relationship with food. It is the first thing I think of when I wake up and often the last thing on my mind as I pass out at night. I am been living in culinary bliss, but last week there was trouble in the home and the relationship was threatened.

I was informed that I have been eating chocolate like a sissy! This was not easy to deal with, so I am writing for this for all those chocolate loving guys out there that are in danger. Yes. Danger. Our reputations are at stake. I was in my local 24-hour supermarket last week when I found Nestle For Men-a line of chocolate bars that are bigger, more rugged, and absolutely for men. In fact each mountainous and badass square is branded with a ‘no women’ sign to make sure these special chocolates don’t fall into the wrong mouths. The product is not all about image either. The secret recipe reveals the tenderness in a man and allows him to speak to any woman.

Nestle For Men comes in classic, with peanuts, and with almonds for only 30Roubles at your nearest Russian store. Chances are I will still eat other chocolate behind closed doors, but now I have something I can eat confidently out in the open, and keep my food matrimony in harmony.

New York-Famous Fat Dave

To help get ourselves acquainted with one of the world’s most famous cities we decided that instead of hopping on the Metro, or a bus tour that we would call Famous Fat Dave and eat our way around the boroughs. Famous Fat Dave (www.famousfatdave.com) provides custom food tours in an old checkered taxicab that pulls the eyes of Nostalgic old New Yorkers, kids, and tourists alike. Dave will take any food request you have and hand you the best of what New York has to offer. He gives you a commentary of the boroughs and hundreds of famous buildings and districts that you pass to get to your next edible landmark.

Fat Dave picked up our trio of Canadians in uptown Manhattan and tossed a Max Brenner chocolate chunk cookie our way as part of our introduction. He told us a little bit about his car as we told him some of the foods we wanted to try and had us rolling toward a coal burning pizza oven before we knew it. New York style pizza has a very thin crust, and when you use a coal oven you get to taste pizza the way it tasted a hundred years ago in NYC. It is no longer legal to use coal ovens but about 60 restaurants in New York have managed to keep theirs running, allowing us to enjoy our first of many New York City pies.

From the Pizza we continued on the Italian theme to have Roman Broccoli fried with Italian Sausage and served with garlic knots and Had a Hero sub from Delfonte’s Sandwich Shop, where the Sopranos like to eat. They served up Italian ham with fried potatoes and egg on a sub with house brewed sweet Tea.

By this point we would have been full, but Dave taught us to pace ourselves from the beginning and had about 20 minutes between each delicacy to digest and feast our eyes on the city. With stomach room to spare we had Vietnamese sandwiches, with lychee and avocado shakes, then stopped for some fresh beef jerky in China town. It was the softest and tastiest Jerky I have had in my life. We managed to keep eating, having key lime pie, and chocolate dipped key lime pie on a stick, but the boundaries were about to be pushed.

Finally we went Jewish, a must in New York, eating blueberry blintzes, and had a visit to the pickle bar, new pickles, aged pickles, pickled okra and green beans. However by the time we got to the pickle bar we were nearly incapable of masticating, swallowing, and ever peristalsis was threatening to come to a halt. Resultantly we left the cab with a bag of pickled goods, peach, blueberry, and vanilla doughnuts, and some left over jerky.

We were so full that we self subscribed ourselves a day of walking off our 3.5 hour marathon to shop through SOHO and have only fluids until a late night doughnut and coffee binge. Famous Dave is a 5-star way to see New York with your eyes and your stomach.

The Works Vs The Putici Bros.

Two years ago when my brother started moving his work into Eastern Canada I heard about the myriad of unique and delicious restaurants in Ottawa and Toronto. One restaurant that never left the back of my mind was called The Works. Imagine a burger restaurant where you can get nearly anything a top your burger from pineapple, Kraft Mac N Cheese, sauerkraut, and what screamed out to me—Peanut Butter. This Ottawa born burger chain has been around 8 years and now has 6 locations around the city. Other than the 67 toppings to adorn their seven varieties of burger patties from beef, to chicken, to elk, The Works also features massive towers of onion rings and dozens of amazing milkshakes such as ‘Ryan’s Ashbury Shake’--a mix of caramel, Oreo, and peanut butter.

Due to the heavy and over indulgent menu I have been waiting weeks for a day where I could afford to lay comatose on the couch for the afternoon and recover from the caloric attack on my body. So when the day arrived it was GAME ON!

-PUTICI BROS- VS - THE WORKS-

Round 1: Fajita Poutine

[Fries topped with jack & cheddar cheese, 'oodles of gravy', sauteed onions & green peppers, salsa, & fajita chicken.]

Round 2: San Francisco Treat w Sweet Potato Fries

[1 Lbs Beef Patty, real kraft dinner, cheddar cheese, and bacon]

Round 3: Sk8r Boy w Sweet Potato Fries

[1 lbs beef patty, peanut butter, jack cheese, and strip bacon]

(NOTICE: That glorious dollop of gooey peanut butter)

Round 4: Mocha Oreo Milkshake

WINNER: THE WORKS

In the end we could not finish everything. Therefore the victory goes to the works for overtaking our appetites, but also for having amazing food, and the most creative burgers I have had from any gourmet burger restaurant.