Sampling Soviet Satellites

When you think of Russian food you probably don’t get much past Vodka and Caviar, but there is a quite a lot more. What really adds to the cuisine in Russia is the influence and availability of food from former Soviet Satellite countries. These countries have given Russia food of Slavic, Middle Eastern, and Asian origins, which I have not come across even in the most global of cities.

Last weekend I went with a group of teachers and had my first Belarusian dining experience where I dined on Draniki (a small, flat potato dumpling) served in a pot with baked prunes, onions, and veal. It was served with smetana (kind of like sour cream without the sour). With this I has fresh whortleberry juice and krambambula-a spiced Belarusian liqueur made of vodka, honey and spices such as nut meg, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper.

This following weekend we went for homey Georgian fare- Georgia as in the small eastern European country and not the southern states of America. Georgians are known for good taste and culture as well as being much louder and passionate than our stone-faced Russians. From the smoky long tabled bar we dined in I would have to agree.

We started with Khinkali, a large meat dumpling that you eat with your hands and suck the salty juices out of while still piping hot.

Next we had the iconic and famous Hatchipuri. This cheesy Georgian flat bread is simple but divine. To go with these we had kabob-roasted meat topped with dill, onions, and pomegranate arils, which they call sashik. As dessert we had a double round of Turkish coffee served with chocolate. The coffee is sweetened and served with the grounds still swirling in the glass. You must let it settle to the bottom before you enjoy.

When winter is rough and work is demanding food is often the best part of my day and I am glad to be dipping into a new world of cuisine that is a combination of the new and the homey. If I am in any luck we can hunt down some Azerbaijani next week.

Maslenitsa Madness!

This week in Russia has been the annual celebration Maslenitsa, or Butter week. It is the last week before lent where people all over the country feast upon Blini (pancakes) before their partial fast. It is combined as a festival of spring coming and on the last day of the festival a female scarecrow, the symbol of winter is burned to welcome in the spring.

The week starts fairly slow but each day has a theme, one for having pancakes with your in-laws, one for sweet pancakes, another for festivities and games, and so on. Sunday is the most important day, the day of forgiveness. On this day families take pancakes to their dead relatives in the cemetery as well as celebrate in major festivals included pancakes and animal fighting (sometimes even bears)

As you may have guessed I took full advantage of this holiday and have been eating pancakes left right and center. I began my feasting in Red square with a traditional condensed milk topping paired with a mug of hot mead to the background of fur clad drummers.

Then I did two nights of home cooked Blini from Smoked Salmon and cream cheese, to banana and Nutella, and cinnamon and sugar. These Blini were better than anything I found out on the streets.

The grand finale was on sunday in Red Square where there was a small state fair erected in the shadow of St.Basil's Cathedral. Here there were hundreds of people with scare crow face paint and colorful sunshine pinwheels. Blini were being served up hot- both sweet and savoury as children when flying down a big ice slide. Center stage however was a musical competition with performers in traditional style from all 12 regions of Russia.

It was a cold spring night and so we went home to have a pancake nightcap. I decided it would be best to do this in a personal way with Canadian Maple Syrup and butter.

I am full of Blini, ready for spring, and looking forward to tasting all of the special Lent menus.

Cracks in the Ice

Well once upon a time at New Year I told you I would be publishing many more posts on my blog, and alas the last 2 months have been as dry and barren as my Moscow winter.

Over the last 2 months I have been working at school, with private students and on top of that taking 2 teaching certifications through International House. One in teaching Business English and one for teaching Young Learners. Between the 12 hour days, class prep., homework, meetings, and a teaching practicum on Sundays I have become incredibly productive and have managed to keep some money under the matress for the fall.

On the other hand I have been rendered uninspired and socially uninteresting.

However the first day of spring came yesterday and I have seen some water trickling across the snow-pile-lined pavements of Moscow. Nothing could excite me more! A hint of spring and the summer to follow coupled with the fact that this week is also Maslenitsa (Butter week) in Russia. What the Hell is butter week you ask?

Well, Butter Week or Pancake Week is the week long festival to celebrate the coming of spring and the week before the religious holiday Lent. It is celebrated by eating pancakes (more like a French style crepe) everyday of the week in a different place or accompanying them with social activities and music.

By Sunday I shall be fat, buttery and well informed on the holiday. Watch for my blini news.

Moscow New Year! с Новым годом!

Well 2010 was an exciting year for me. I started my English teaching career successfully, visited 5 new countries, broke my NYC Cherrie, and boarded 15 international flights, along side some domestic planes and trains. I have learned a new alphabet and a few phrases from the crazy Russian language that has become part of my day to day life. I also call one of the worlds largest cities my home- Moscow.

Having moved to Russia for the year I wanted make sure I celebrated New Year in a Traditional way. My Students filled me in on all the tricks of the trade.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS: To start I dressed as a Rabbit- this is the animal of the Chinese Zodiac for 2011 (also used in Russia) and it is part of the tradition to dress as this animal.

SWALLOW ASHES: At the stroke of 12 you must yell Happy New Year, then write your wish for the year on a piece of paper, burn it, and drink the ashes in Champagne.

EAT FRENCH SALAD: Somewhere along the line a salad called ‘Salad Olivier’ a mix potatoes, mayo, and other vegetables, and ham or other meat became a Russian New Year tradition. The salad was actually invented in Russia by the chef of the Hermitage Restaurant named Lucien Olivier, a Russian of Belgian origin. Luckily I got to sample the tasty salad made by both Russian and Expat friends.

OPEN YOUR DOORS: This one you must wait for until ‘Old New Year’ on January 13^th when Russia used to celebrate the New Year. On this you are supposed to open your door at midnight and invite in the New Year.

Other than the fun traditions I had the pleasure of a 10-day vacation from work to welcome in the New Year through relaxation and exploration. Thank you to all the people and places that have made 2010 so great, and to those who will make 2011 even greater!

с Новым годом!

Angry New Year

Unbelievable. When I stopped home on my way to a party to find my room mate had moved out. (YAY) The flat was next to trashed. (Not so yay, but half expected) Dishes in the sink, and food left rotting out. The slow realization that it will take me a full day to get the old shit from my scummy, fat, drunken monster of a room mate out of my life for good. (Worth it in the end). Oh and the extremely slow realization that my clothes I had put in the washing machine happen to not be in my room, in the kitchen, my room mate’s room, ANY cupboard, garbage, bathroom, or closet. They were not on the balcony….

So where could they be? I look around again. Where could they be? I love my clothes; hopefully he didn’t take them by mistake…Where COULD THEY BE?

Open window on the balcony… No way.

Look Down… Yes way!

In fact way, way. Down is my clothes hanging like ghosts throughout the tree branches far below my 14^th floor balcony (UNBELIEVABLE!) That drunken old bastard! So, despite my shock and need for revenge I suit up, grab the broom and see if I can get my clothes from the trees outside. Some of my favorites-- Khaki pants from my brother’s wedding, a sweater from Germany, a dress shirt from Spain, and another from South Africa. Unbelievable. I mean are you kidding me? Housing will be getting a call about this.

I manage to fish down the sweater, only mildly damaging my broom. But can’t reach the others so go up the 3^rd floor hoping to go out on the balcony and get the others. A woman from her door is yelling at me in Russian but I have no idea what she is saying, then she get to the door and opens it with a slow mumble. She lets me in and I say some nonsense in no language either of us know but I point to my recovered sweater and the broom and point to her door. She doesn’t stop my advance into her flat so she must have noticed the clothes. I go in and the dog barks like a hellhound as it wipes its ass all over the floor. Instantly I am hit with the musky scent of years of hot dank isolation.

Memories of Detroit ghetto coming whirling back to me as I enter the dark flat and the Babushka locks the door and calms the dog. I start to advance to the balcony before I can get no for an answer, I fumble for the light but she turns it on and I meet her scowling bed ridden husband, I say hi in Russian and go to the balcony, easily grab my pants, and narrowly miss the African plaid. I use an old ski rod I find on the balcony but can’t manage to unhook the sleeve. As I am teetering over the edge head first I decide my life is worth more this new years than to get my last 2 shirts, so I go back inside and plan to return the next day when I have more time or hire out a fire truck.

The Old Russians keep talking to me as if I was their Grandson but everything just spins through my head with the rage and disbelief I am feeling. Finally the newest phrase my students taught me pops into my head. Ya Nyez Nayu! I don’t know! The old man keeps talking. Ya Nyez Nayu! HE keeps talking, then he yells it back ‘Ya Nyez Nayu?!’

At this point I decide to leave. I take a rain check for the night and decide to bring in the new year with friends, hopefully it does turn happy.

He Lives!

As people keep telling me, and I keep noticing myself: I seem to have fallen off the face of the earth. I didn’t fall off but I have been blending in with the snow and sludge crusted crust of the Moscow streets. I am going to get the New Year Started off in a more informative, yet informal way.

So here is a quick run down of my two missing months:

-->I packed up everything in my flat in Moscow and left it in a big pile to be moved to a new flat as I went to my brother’s wedding.

-->I spent a week in Canada buying things you just can’t get in Moscow, caught up with friends and family, and celebrated Christmas early.

-->Then I jetted off to Mexico to spend a sun-soaked week of PURE BLISS with some of the closest friends and family I have and had to honor of being the best man at my brother’s wedding. Although I am just his brother, I had the feeling a dad might have when he gives away his son to someone who has known him for such a short time. He is my ONLY brother. However, I am gladder for my brother than anyone could be and his darling wife Danielle is the perfect match for him. Therefor I am willing to share him.

-->I then returned to Moscow and had to find and unpack my into new flat. This is where life became a whirl wind: No internet at home, teaching, applying and interviewing for two new teaching courses, and dressing up as Santa Clause for promotional lessons with the school took over my life.

-->I celebrated my birthday with a long overdue ABC party and dressed as a giant Matroyhka (Russian Stacking Doll). Then my dear friend and fake wife Mila came to visit me as she Blitzes the globe, and then of course came Christmas with my dear adopt-a-family here in Moscow. And I discovered the great perk of being a teacher- CHRISTMAS PRESENTS AND CHAMPAGNE!!!

Hope all of you had a wonderful holiday season and in 2011 I will keep the writing a little more consistent.

Life is Fantastic!

What Russians are Like.

What are Russians like? I have been asked this a thousand times now, and after enough conversations I have worked out what I think is an honest answer, at least for those in Moscow.

Russians on first impression are soulless drones who go through the city without expressing themselves or doing anything with personality. At first I was overwhelmed by the apparent misery of the millions of people who had never learned to smile, but I slowly began to encounter the souls of these people. I’ve seen people melt from Robot to a raw loving being when they see someone they know, I have seen a group of friends start a dance circle in the middle of my metro car and shake with uncontrollable laughter, and I have seen a boy holding three umbrellas to try and cover himself and two girls in a rainstorm with success beaming across his face.

I find that Russians are truly ambiguous. On one hand they are rough and insensitive. From a tourist point of view they make no effort to welcome foreigners, cooperate with you when you are trying to speak Russian, or English, and are generally cold and pushy. They also have a streak of racism and bigotry that is not acceptable in ‘The West’; my students are often shocked by just seeing a Black person and need constant reprimanding for the use of ‘Nigger’ in class.

On the other hand once Russians get to know you they are very hospitable, passionate, and loving. They seem be rushing with life blood that is just dying to come out and let you in on everything it has to offer. I feel that you become family once you get past the preliminary meeting and prove you are ok to open up to and that they are truly very funny people. I have also met some very vivacious, radiant young Russians and it seems that the youth in Moscow are becoming much more open and friendly with foreigners and want to mix and mingle with the expat community that is so large there.

Now of course what everyone back home really wants to know is if they drink a lot of vodka, wear fur, and speak with deep accents like in the movies. I have to say that yes, a lot of the stereotypes are sound. Of course with all stereotypes they only apply to a certain percent of the population, but generally the fur is true, smoking is about as common as breathing, vodka is cheap and drank as a shot, and never mixed as a highball (Apparently mixing vodka and coke will make both taste worse.), and most new students do have an accent similar to that we see in cold war movies.

Overall, Russians can be very similar to us; I feel it is the mindset of Russians that make them different. The leftovers of tsarist and communist rule can still be seen. They are a society that has always been told what they can and can’t do, and despite capitalism and democracy they have not taken up freedom, as we know it. Something as simple as standing somewhere for a picture can be off limits, where as it wouldn’t even enter the mind of most westerners. However this won’t stop me from buying a fur hat and joining in on what make Russians the unique and wonderful people they are.